#37 - CASA DE TARANTULA #2

I have kept and bred Poecilotheria for as long as they've been in the hobby. I can't even guess how many sacs I have produced over the years. If you've watched my Tarantulas in the Terrarium instructional film you have seen my old Nashville Spider Shoppe and the custom 10 gallon aquarium on end enclosures I used to make for Pokies with step-by-step instructions. You also saw that as soon as the ExoTerra Natural Terrarium (12x12x18 "Mini Tall" size) hit the market I began using them as well. (Please check out the video to learn more about my use of these). However, my results have been as good, if not better, using a cereal container type of enclosure that was popularized by Ray Gabriel in a number of BTS Journal articles over the years. I have developed my own version of this enclosure and still use it today.

Poecilotheria are tree hole inhabitants and they do well in housing that provides them with a secure and dark retreat. They don't require as much space as a vertically-oriented ten gallon aquarium or 12x12x18" ExoTerra affords them. Don't get me wrong, I still use both of these types of enclosure as well, but if you are new to Poecilotheria breeding or have limited space (or money to spend on housing) I believe you will have better results using the simple cereal container enclosure I will describe in this installment of Casa de Tarantula.

I prefer the largest cereal container I can find and use the Mainstays brand sold at Wal-Mart. In these photos you will notice the white lid (with pour spout) and handle. I took the series of step-by-step photos I will use in this blog entry some time ago when this was the best container Wal-Mart offered. However, Mainstays has since changed the design to one with a blue hinged lid without the pour spout that no longer has a handle. This model is even better! I will close with a photo of the superior model in use. You will notice that with the older version I would just pull out the pour spout and cover that opening with aluminum insect screening affixed from the inside with hot glue. With the newer model with the blue top I use my 2" hole saw to cut an opening in the hinged lid and cover the hole the same way.

Another thing that is important to note with the step-by-step series of images is that in order to illustrate the design better I covered the rear that creates the simulated dark tree hole retreat last. This was so you could see the cork tile retreat and how, after cutting it so it fits snugly, I use the adhesive backed squares that come with the four-pack of cork tiles to prevent the cut cork tile from sliding to the front or rear. You can buy these four-packs of 12x12" cork tiles at Wal-Mart or Target. They are also available at office supply stores, but are much more expensive there. When I actually build these containers I darken the rear of the container with the 2" black Duck brand tape first, before I put in the cork tile, and definitely before I put in the substrate (EcoEarth coconut coir) and sprig of silk plant (bought at Michael's). You could also use the less expensive ExoTerra plants sold at pet stores and very cheap from Pet Solutions.

Showing screen covering removed pour spout

Showing lid from other side and cork tile cut to fit snugly in the rear third of container

Note how the tile is cut. Since the container is taller than the 12" square tile there is a gap between the tile and the lid of the cereal container. This is good. However, I still cut the half circle "notch" in the center that is the entrance to the faux "tree hole.

This image shows the cork tile piece set in place. You may prefer your own modification for creating a channel for the cork to slide into that will keep it from moving backward or forward. However, the package of cork tiles comes with these little double-adhesive squares. I keep the paper covering on one side of the square and peel off the other adhesive side and place these as shown. If you cut the cork tile well so that it follows the taper of the container it will be snug and tight against the inside. These squares are then sufficient to keep the piece in place vertically, and you can actually pull the cork tile out and later slide it back in as if the squares were a channel. A fancier design might actually use a piece of plastic channel, but I haven't found it necessary. Once the substrate is added it will also help to secure the vertical cork tile piece in place.

Again, I actually put the tape on the container as the FIRST STEP. These photos are out of build sequence for illustrative purposes. However, it does help to know exactly where the cork tile is going to be so you might want to install it first and make the taping the second step. In the above photo you can see that the first piece of tape is added so that the cork tile is in its middle. I then proceed to tape all of the back. I cut small pieces as needed to try to keep all light out of the back of the container. In a later photo you will even see that I put two pieces of tape on the inside of the container to cover where the handle attaches on the outside to further block light from coming in. With the newer model of Mainstays cereal container that doesn't have a handle this is much easier.

The handle is a pain. Little strips of tape need to be cut to cover entire back and block out light.
The newer version without a handle eliminates this problem

Finished taping. In the next photos you will see a couple of pieces of tape on the inside.
These block the light from where the translucent handle attaches to the container.

This top view shows finished container with coco substrate covered by some green moss and
a sprig of silk (or plastic) plant. It also shows the two inside pieces of black vinyl (Duck, duct) tape.

Finished container

The above photo shows how I breed Poecilotheria using these containers. Ray Gabriel used to use actual cabinets with clear fronts, but I use a large clear tub with a small vent cut in the lid that is covered from the inside with aluminum insect screening affixed by hot glue. Both the male and female containers are placed inside the enclosure to create a "breeding arena". I usually leave them side by side for a few days and then remove the male's lid. After he has the chance to explore the "breeding arena" for a few nights I then will remove the female's lid and leave both like this for a couple weeks. Depending on whether I need the male for another female or not, I either remove both in their own containers or, if the male is not needed elsewhere, I will sometimes put both male and female in the female's container and put them back on the spider room shelf. In general, Poecilotheria males and females will cohabitate. I have some males right now that have been living with a female for over a year. Poecilotheria fasciata and P. ornata are the most likely to attack the male (and sometimes P. rufilata), but the other species are generally fine. That's all I'll say about breeding for now as I will soon start a third ongoing series that will get into breeding in depth and it will begin with a formula for Pokie breeding success.

This final image shows the new version of Mainstays cereal container. Without the handle putting the black tape on the rear half or third is so much easier. Note how I use a hole saw to cut a hole to provide the only ventilation. You will also notice that in this particular enclosure I used a piece of cork bark instead of the cork tile. I actually prefer the less expensive cork tiles, which are easy to cut to span the entire width. It also provides a darker rear.

Anyway, that's it for Casa de Tarantula #2. As I wrote, I will start a breeding series soon that will first return to these containers and the formula for Poecilotheria breeding success.